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Gamcheon Culture Village: A Guide to Busan’s Rainbow Hillside
If you’ve ever searched for things to do in Busan, Korea, you’ve undoubtedly seen photos of a hillside of homes in pastel colors. Covered in murals, the Gamcheon Culture Village (감천문화마을) has blown up over the last decade into one of the most touristed places on the southern coast. Cute, quirky, colorful. It’s a stop that will make you smile as you wander thanks to the artistic flare that’s been added over the years, but it will also make you sweat, so be prepared. Beyond the light blues, pinks, and yellows, what actually makes Gamcheon different from a lot of Korea’s “Instagram famous” spots is that it’s not a manufactured…
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One Year After Cosmetic Surgery in Korea: The Honest Update Nobody Talks About
You might think that by the time a year has passed after cosmetic surgery, everything has settled, healed, and resolved itself neatly. And in many ways, it has. But there are also things I’m still noticing, still adjusting to, and still thinking about that I wish someone had told me beforehand. If you read my original post about my experience with genioplasty, elasticum, Accu 2 Part, and submentoplasty at AB Plastic Surgery Clinic in Seoul, you already know the week-by-week recovery story. This is the chapter that comes after. A year on, I want to be honest with you in the way that only time allows. Not just the results,…
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The North Korean Human Rights Museum in Seoul: Small But Impactful
In Jongno-gu, Seoul, the Database Center for North Korean Human Rights (북한인권정보센터) is the mind behind bringing to light the freedom of expression violations in North Korea through an educational space that is open and welcoming to all. What brought chills and a deep sense of authenticity to the museum for me were the real testimonies from North Korean defectors describing harsh imprisonment conditions, backed by decades of human rights research conducted since the early 2000s. Reading and hearing these documented human rights violations left me feeling transported somewhere else entirely, speechless, and more than a little frustrated. Get ready to explore the North Korean Human Rights Exhibition Hall in…
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Doseonsa Temple: Seoul’s Most Sacred Mountain Retreat in Bukhansan
You might think you’ve seen Seoul’s best temples just by visiting the famous ones downtown. Jogyesa Temple and Bongeunsa Temple are certainly the easiest ones to get to, but tucked inside the folds of Bukhansan National Park, about an hour from the city center, is a temple with so many stories to tell. Doseonsa Temple (도선사) is a Buddhist temple in Gangbuk-gu, Seoul, founded in 862 AD, it’s the largest and most historically significant temple complex on the mountain. I’ve visited a lot of temples across Korea, but this one I got to explore with Professor David Mason, an expert on Korean temple culture, so not only was it fulfilling,…
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Bulguksa Temple: The Heart of Korean Buddhism in Gyeongju
Bulguksa Temple (불국사) in Gyeongju is the most famous Buddhist temple in Korea, and once you’ve visited, it’s easy to understand why. I first visited Bulguksa in 2006, the year I arrived in Korea. I had no real context for what I was seeing then, just a sense that this place was extraordinary. I’ve been back twice since, and each visit has given me something new. That’s the thing about Bulguksa. The more you understand about Korean history and Buddhism, the richer every detail becomes. Bulguksa Temple sits on the western slopes of Mt. Tohamsan in Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom. Along with the nearby Seokguram Grotto,…
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Korean Folk Village in Yongin: The Perfect Day Trip from Seoul into the Joseon Dynasty
There are two types of folk villages in Korea, authentic, lived-in villages where some residents still call the old homes their own, and recreated villages built specifically for visitors to learn, engage with, and experience Korean history and culture. One is not better than the other; they are just different and offer different things. I bring this up because one of the most well-known examples you’ll come across when searching is the Korean Folk Village (한국민속촌). Broadly and simply named, it is exactly what it says it is, but for history lovers, it might not quite be what they’re looking for. The Korean Folk Village in Yongin is a recreation…
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Museum Kimchikan in Insadong: Learn About and Make Kimchi Like a Local
You might think kimchi is just a side dish, something that appears in a small bowl beside your rice without much ceremony. I’ve heard people say they tried kimchi once, didn’t like it, and that was that… little did they know how many kinds of kimchi there are and oh how much there is to try. Spend an hour inside Museum Kimchikan (뮤지엄 김치간) in Seoul’s Insadong neighborhood and you’ll walk out knowing what you really should know to appreciate this little side dish on the table that means so much more than people realize. Kimchikan is Korea’s first kimchi museum, and it’s far more than a quiet gallery of…
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Chunpoong Brewery: Where Thousands of Years of Makgeolli Meets the Future
Chunpoong Brewery (춘풍 양조장) isn’t your average brewery. It’s part living museum, part high-tech fermentation lab, part cultural gallery, and part bar, all wrapped into one thoughtfully designed building in central Jung-gu, Seoul. “Chun” (춘) means spring, and “Poong” (풍) means breeze. Together, they carry a hope that Korean makgeolli will drift out from the confines of history and into the wider world and they want to make that possible with the use of AI. You might think you know makgeolli, sometimes called rice wine when translated, made with just three simple ingredients: rice, water, and nuruk (a Korean fermentation starter). That milky, fizzy rice wine you sipped at a…
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Sammilsa Temple: What To Find in the Hidden Mountain Hermitage Above Jinhae
You might think Jinhae is just a cherry blossom town. And yes, in the spring it puts on one of the most spectacular floral displays in all of Korea. But nearby above the city in the slopes of Jangboksan Mountain, there’s a quiet little temple that has nothing to do with petals or festivals but it’s worth taking a detour for. Whenever I travel in Korea, I always look up what temples are in the area. Often they sit on nearby mountains with great views and that’s how I found Sammilsa (삼밀사). Not only were the views what pulled me in, but the faces of 500 stone statues beckoned as…
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Hyundai Motor Studio Goyang: The Best Indoor Activity Near Seoul for Kids (and Car Lovers)
You might think a car showroom sounds like the last place you’d take your family for a fun day out. I wouldn’t call myself a car lover by any means, but I’m telling you Hyundai Motor Studio Goyang (현대모터스튜디오 고양) is very cool and fascinating. This is one of those places where kids are captivated, adults are impressed, and everyone walks out having learned something they didn’t expect, we did anyway. It’s a theme park for car lovers and an approachable glimpse into mechanics. If you’re planning a day trip or looking for a rainy-day indoor activity, this one belongs at the top of your list. Located near KINTEX in…
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Is Hello Kitty Island In Jeju Worth Visiting? (An Honest Review)
Let me be upfront with you: Hello Kitty Island in Jeju (헬로키티아일랜드) is really for two types of visitors: die-hard Hello Kitty and Sanrio fans, and families with young children who adore the characters and want a dedicated indoor play area to burn off energy. If you don’t fall into one of those camps, you’ll likely find it a bit light on substance. At its core, this is a photo-op experience dressed up as a museum, and there’s nothing wrong with that, as long as you know what you’re signing up for. Spanning three floors of Hello Kitty themed exhibits, a pink café, and a gift shop, it’s great if…
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Sip, Swirl & Repeat at the 2026 New Zealand Wine Festival in Seoul and Busan
One of Korea’s best springtime events is back. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur in Seoul or Busan, or simply looking for a luxurious way to enjoy the season, the 2026 New Zealand Wine Festival hosted by the New Zealand Kiwi Chamber of Commerce Korea is not to be missed. Returning for its 27th year in Busan and 26th in Seoul, this year’s theme is “Where Wine Meets Art,” celebrating wine not only as a drink but as a craft shaped by terroir and time. With over 20 wineries from New Zealand pouring their best, paired with exquisite cuisine and a garden or seaside backdrop, all you have to decide is:…
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Where To Stay in Gyeongju: The Best Hotels and Hanoks For Every Budget
You might think Gyeongju is just another stop on the Korea itinerary, a quick day trip from Busan, a tick on the UNESCO checklist. But spend a night here, like I have numerous times over the past twenty years, and you understand why the city known as the “museum without walls” is special. The tomb mounds catch the last light. Wolji Pond goes golden at dusk. A thousand years of Silla history settle quietly around you, and suddenly a single day feels like nowhere near enough time. If you’re still planning, my full guide to Gyeongju and the things to see there is worth reading. Where you base yourself in…
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Best Day Trips From Seoul With Kids: A Local Parent’s Guide
Seoul has so many great things to do with kids from museums to kids cafes and parks in between, but sometimes you just want a bigger adventure, a more open space, or a place that feels a little more out of the way, special even. Day trips from Seoul with kids can be absolutely worth it. The Seoul subway system is massive and far reaching into the suburbs so sometimes you can get out a lot easier than you ever realized. I’ve seen a lot of lists that just throw every nearby attraction together, but as a parent raising a child here, I think about things a little differently. Can…
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What Is Pungmul in Korea? A Guide to Korea’s Rhythmic Folk Performance Tradition
You might hear it before you see it. A sharp metallic clang cuts through the air, the deep barrel drum answers back, and then suddenly a whole swirl of color, ribbons, spinning hats, stomping feet, and smiling performers comes into view. That is often how pungmul (풍물) enters the scene in Korea. It’ll make you want to stop, stare, dance, strut, and join in the fun. If you have spent any time at traditional festivals in Korea, there is a good chance you have already seen pungmul without knowing its name. I have watched these performances at the Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul, at the Jeju Fire Festival, and at…
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The Jeju Haenyeo Museum: Preserving the Spirit of Jeju’s Sea Women
In recent years, something beautiful has been happening on Jeju Island in South Korea. More visitors are arriving not just for the beaches, oreums, and black pork barbecue, but specifically to learn about the haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary female free divers. As interest in sustainable travel, women’s history, and UNESCO cultural heritage grows, so too does curiosity about these remarkable sea women. The haenyeo culture of Jeju was inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and while the number of active divers has declined as the women age, awareness and appreciation from visitors helps keep their legacy alive. On the eastern side of Jeju Island, in the quiet coastal…
