Gongdeok District In Seoul May Surprise You

There are some districts of Seoul that seem like straight forward business districts and nothing more. Gongdeok has always been one of those areas for me. I’d pass through the area on the way from Hongdae to Itaewon or visit when I was going down to Yeouido to see the annual fireworks festival, but until last year when I was working in Gongdeok, I hadn’t really stopped to look around. Glad I did though.

While there are a ton of businesses in the area, there are also cool cafes, reclaimed spaces, and some good good good eats. So, if you are around and want to try something different, don’t hesitate to jump off of the subway in Gongdeok and check it out.

Recently, I had a friend move to the area and she has said that living there is actually quite great due to the multiple transportation options. This has now also become one of my top recommendations for people to stay if they want something a bit off the beaten path in terms of touristy finds.

That said, the area sits on subway line 6 which goes west and east and gets from Hongdae to Itaewon and beyond. It also has line 5 which goes north and south and hits Yeouido as well as Gwanghwamun where the palaces are and the Dongdaemun Design Plaza area. It’s a central hub that features some local markets to eat in and cool cafes to hang out in and that’s perfect for tourists or family coming to visit.

Gongdeok has more than meets the eye:

• Where To Stay In Gongdeok
• Cafes In The Gongdeok Area
• Where To Eat

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Where To Stay In Gongdeok

Gongdeok is actually a great area to stay if you’re traveling to Seoul. Not only can you get from Incheon International Airport straight to Gongdeok on the airport train, but from there, it’s an easy trip north, south, east, or west to all of the major tourist sites. Definitely don’t overlook this area if you want to stay somewhere central and nice.

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Cafes In The Gongdeok Area

Fritz Coffee Company (프릳츠)

Fritz Coffee has cafes throughout the city and each uses the converted space in a beautiful way. In Gongdeok, the Fritz Coffee sits on a back street in an old Hanok house. Walk through the front gate to find a beautiful courtyard that may have a rainbow scene in the summer.

Head into the first floor to get some coffee and a treat and then go upstairs to find even more seating. Looking for good coffee? This is the stop to make. Another Fritz that I’ve quite enjoyed is over in the Bukchon area and has seating in a courtyard just outside of Arario Museum.

• Address: 179-9 Dohwa-dong Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 마포구 도화동 179-9)
• Hours: Monday – Friday: 8:00am ~ 11:00pm; Saturday – Sunday: 10:00am ~ 11:00pm

Bplusm Cafe & Furniture Showroom (비플러스엠)

This space called to me with the simple lines, great design and wooden accents on white walls. It’s really a beautiful showroom and if you’re there at the right time, you can get coffee and enjoy the furniture and the space. There is seating outside in a courtyard area as well as inside on the first floor. It’s a very cool space with great lines and huge beautiful windows letting all of the light in.

• Address: 424-23 Ahyeon-dong Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 마포구 아현동 424-23)
• Hours: Tuesday – Sunday: 11:00am ~ 8:00pm (Closed for lunch hour from 1:00pm ~ 2:00pm)

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Where To Eat

There are some great places to eat in Gongdeok. If you’re passing through, but feeling hungry, jump off of the transportation and choose one of these restaurants in the area.

Yeokjeon Hall (역전회관)

First established in Seocheon in 1928, Yeokjeon Hall was originally called Hosang Restaurant based on the sign at their door. The sign didn’t make it clear when they moved to Seoul, but articles would suggest it was in the 1960s. It’s officially listed on the list of the oldest restaurants in Seoul as established in 1962.

There are set menus which include their well known specialty bulgogi option called crunchy bulgogi (바싹불고기) that is served along with a dish of steamed pork, a bowl of ox blood soup (선지국), and a plate of spicy grilled octopus (낙지볶음).

There is also an ala carte menu and other set meal options if you’re not a huge fan of ox blood soup like our crew when we visited. The bulgogi and beef tartare bibimbap (육회비빔밥) along with the side dishes were amazing though!

• Address: 67-1 Yonggang-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울시 마포구 용강동 67-1)
• Hours: Tuesday – Friday: 11:30am ~ 9:30pm (Break time: 3:00pm ~ 5:00pm); Saturday – Sunday: 11:30am ~ 9:00pm (Break time: 3:00pm ~ 4:30pm)

Eulmildae (을밀대 평양냉면)

EulMilDae is one of those small hole in the wall places that you know of if you’re in the know but wouldn’t spot if you just passed by on the street. The exterior exudes little and even the interior is simple with retro tables and chairs likely still there from when the place first opened in the 70’s. The white faded walls keep it clean looking and only what is necessary is hung up like the menu, a clock and a tissue dispenser.

EulMilDae specializes in Pyeongyang naengmyeon. There are two kinds of naengmyeon from North Korea, Pyeongyang and Hamheung obviously named after cities in the northern country. Hamheung naengmyeon is made with potato starch noodles and spicy chili pepper paste and isn’t served with broth whereas Pyeongyang naegmyeon is served with buckwheat noodles and a mild cold broth. According to my husband, Pyeongyang naengmyeon is one of those dishes that you either love or you hate.

Due to it’s mild taste you may think it’s just not that appealing or it’s like you’re eating but nothing memorable so what’s the point? It wasn’t until I was walking down the street afterward the first time I had the icy dish that I felt the urge to go back and have more which my husband said was proof I was a lover and not a hater.

While I was eating though, I was a bit confused. Shouldn’t we add one of the spicy sauces Korean dishes are known for? Or some spicy mustard or vinegar like we add when we’re at a meat restaurant? While there are condiments sitting on the table should want them, my husband would tell you not to.

The soup may seem simple enough to make, but the beef and water kimchi combination has to be just right for it to be refreshing and leave just the right aftertaste in the mouth. EulMilDae has been open since the 1970’s and considering they are still in operation, it’s a good indication that they know what they’re doing. Naengmyeon snobs, like my husband, come here again and again for cold noodle soup from winter to summer and back around again.

The restaurant is perfectly simple in ambiance while offering up some truly appealing North Korean style soups. Definitely a must visit if you want to know what Pyeongyang naengmyeon is all about.

• Address: 24 Soongmoon-gil 24 Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 마포구 숭문길 24)
• Hours: Every day: 11:00am ~ 10:00pm

Golden Bean Field (황금콩밭)

This artisanal tofu restaurant makes tofu and cheonggukjang from 100% domestic soybeans every morning. They use Korean beef from Sobaeksan Mountain and antibiotic-free pork from Jeju Island. They make their own kimchi using high-quality domestic red pepper powder and garlic, and everything is carefully prepared. They received the Michelin Guide’s Green Star three times from 2021 to 2023 so far.

Definitely make a stop to try their delicious sundubu jjigae. It’s so good, you have to try this spot in the heart of Gondeok.

• Address: 9 Mapo-daero 16-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 마포구 마포대로 16길 9)
• Hours: Every day: 11:30am ~ 9:30pm (Weekdays there’s a breaktime from 3:00pm ~ 5:00pm)

Mapo Jinjja Wonjo Choidaepo (마포진짜원조최대포)

Opened in 1956, this is one of the oldest restaurants in Seoul. If you like Korean bbq, you’ll like what they’ve got on order; pork ribs, pig skin, and all the fixins.

• Address: 112-4 Mapo-daero, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울시 마포구 마포대로 112-4)
• Hours: Every day: 11:00am ~ 11:00pm

Brancusi (브랑쿠시)

This isn’t exactly in the Gongdeok area, but it’s fairly close and I haven’t posted about it even though we first went last summer. Brancusi is cool space with various rooms and cool seating, sun lights and good good eats. If you’re looking for your next brunch spot, look no further. A little of something for everyone is on the menu and it’s all yum.

It’s off the beaten path and in a quieter spot on the weekends, but that doesn’t mean it gets quiet. The food is beckoning so the people go. Get there early to get a good seat. We sat in the back space that requires a little walk into a courtyard and then in to a more private seating area. Enjoy!

• Address: 28-65 Yongmun-dong Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 용산구 용문동 28-65)
• Hours: Every day: 11:00am ~ 11:00pm

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Gongdeok is a bit of a hub for people traveling from the artsy district of Hongdae to the fun spots in Hannam-dong. If you want to see what’s around, I suggest checking out these other posts for what to do nearby:

• The War Memorial of Korea
• Hidden Gems In The Hip Hannam District Of Seoul
• The Art District Of Seoul: Hongdae

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