Explore Seoul (서울탐험)

A Guide To Yeonnam-dong: The Hot Spot Near Hongdae in Seoul

Yeonnam-dong, a neighborhood near Hongdae, a hotspot for live music, bars, and a local busking scene, has seen a lot of popularity in recent years. The first six years I lived in the area, it was under construction and no one wanted to cross the street to walk the area but as soon as Gyeongui Line Forest Park, also called Yeontral Park as an ode to New York’s Central Park, opened, the neighborhood saw a popularity it hadn’t seen in ages.

There are now tons of cafes, restaurants, and a gorgeous, albeit very thing, park where locals and visitors rest, picnic, and walk. If you want to check out one of the newest hot spot in Seoul, here is a guide to help you get around Yeonnam-dong and see what there is to see. There’s a lot to see and it’s not just cool cafes. There are some cool murals, mosaic walls, and fun spots too. Let’s dig in!

Yeonnam-dong, Seoul, Korea: Murals

Plan a trip to Yeonnam-dong with this guide:

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How To Get To Yeonnam-dong

By Subway: Make sure to have that T-Money Card topped up and ready to go. Yeonnam-dong is easily reached by going to Hongik University Subway Station and taking exit 3. It’ll drop you right beside the Gyeongui Line Forest Park and from there you can follow the alleys and streets to find the nearby cafes and restaurants.


What To Know About Yeonnam-dong

A great thing about going for a hunt in Yeonnam-dong is that you won’t get lost. To the east is the main six lane road that cuts between Yeonnam-dong and Hongdae. To the west is the Hongjecheon Stream. To the north you’ll find a giant wall and the only way to get through are a couple tunnels that lead to Yeonhui-dong. To the south, you’ll run into another six lane road. Basically, you could wander, hit the sides, turn around and continue to wander for some time all the while staying in Yeonnam-dong.


Where To Stay In Yeonnam-dong

Holiday Inn Express

If you’re looking for a hotel in the area, then Holiday Inn Express is the best and closest hotel to stay in. This hotel is really new and very close to the train station… literally right on top of it! The hotel staff is really friendly and helpful and guests that have stayed there since it opened have had rave reviews. It’s definitely worth looking into if you want to visit Yeonnam-dong and stay in the Hongdae area of Seoul.

Book a stay at this hotel on Booking.com or on Agoda.com

Holiday Inn Express Seoul Hongdae, Yeonnam-dong, Korea

A Cozy Studio In Hongdae

While this isn’t right IN Yeonnam-dong, it is right across the street and it’s an adorable spot to check out. This is one of those bohemian spots that I love Airbnb for. If you’re like me and want a chic stay that affords you more homey amenities like a kitchen and washer, then this might be just the right spot for you.

Check it out on Airbnb here.

Cozy Studio in Hongdae, Seoul, Korea

The Bohemian Staybang

Another stylish stay in the area is the Bohemian Staybang. This is a great location if you want something connected to the subway station in Hongdae which has both the green central Seoul subway line and the AREX airport subway line. The interior is clean and chic and suits travelers looking for convenience as well as amenities with style.

Check out this stay on Airbnb here.

Bohemiam Staybang, Hongdae, Seoul, Korea

There are actually so many places to stay in Yeonnam-dong and the Hongdae area now. It’s one of the best neighborhoods in the city to stay. Want some more options? Check out this guide for where to stay in Hongdae.


Where To Eat In Yeonnam-dong

There are a TON of places to eat in the Yeonnam-dong area. After perusing the map, you might think this district is rather small and thus doesn’t offer a lot, but people have really packed it in. There are restaurants and eateries almost everywhere you look now. Here are some ideas for where to go when you’re in the area but definitely hop into anything that catches your eye when you’re there.

SF Bagels

The owner and baker of SF Bagels brought her sourdough starter all the way from San Francisco and has been feeding it ever since. She bakes up bagels and sweets to perfection and is happy to converse in both Korean and English. She’s extremely helpful and knowledgeable about her craft and for an Ohio girl that LOVES sourdough, this is now my go-to bakery for all things bready. From coffee cake to scones, cinnamon rolls and more, she’s stirring, flipping, whipping and baking her goods up to perfection.

  • Address: 385-1 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울시 마포구 연남동 385-1)
  • Hours: Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays: 11:00am ~ 9:00pm; Saturday – Sunday: 9:00am ~ 9:00pm

Permil (퍼밀)

This chic restaurant in a renovated Hanok house is not the easiest to find but that gives it even more airs of must-eat ambiance. Down some back alley, you make your way into this beautiful Hanok and inside the lighting fixtures immediately stand out as they draw the eye upward to the tall ceilings that are different from most older Hanok houses.

Ambiance is on point and food is delicious. Definitely worth the hunt to seek out this little needle in a haystack. If you’re up for finding unique places in hard to find spots, then this is the restaurant for you to check out in Yeonnam-dong.

  • Address: 26 Donggyo 46-gil Mapo-gu, Seoul (26 동교 46길 마포구)
  • Hours: Every day: 11:30am ~ 11:00pm

Tampa Sandwich Bar (탬파)

Taking a leap of faith similar to the chef in the movie The Chef from which the owners got their idea, owners Geunmin Kang and Hyunmin Cho decided to perfect some American southern staples and open up shop in chic Yeonnam-dong in October of 2015. Google and YouTube were all these two needed to perfect dishes like the Cuban sandwich, Po’ boy and pulled pork. Who would have thought?

They’ve also got fried Oreos and a Mac N’ Cheese sandwich that when paired with craft beer hits the spot. If you’re looking for that down home goodness, this place will tickle your fancy. Seriously though, they’re so good, they’ve actually won first place at the 6th and 7th Annual International Cuban Sandwich Festival in Tampa, Florida. They know what they’re doing and they do it right.

  • Address: 260-2 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울시 마포구 연남동 260-2)
  • Hours: Tuesday – Sunday: 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm

Thanks, Oat (땡스오트)

This small rustic cottage sits right on Gyeongui Line Forest Park and was a filming location in How To Publish Love (로만스는 별책부록). That’s not why I went there though. For me, the pictures of colorful granola bowls were calling. The eatery serves up amazing thick creamy yoghurt and granola bowls and we were very happy with our chocolate and strawberry and berry choices. The white brick exterior with wooden accents give off a very charming feel and the owner is just as kind. Definitely a spot not to miss if you need a lighter meal or snack while in the area.

  • Address: 375-113 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울시 마포구 연남동 375-113)
  • Hours: Every day: 12:00pm ~ 9:00pm

Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai, Yeonnam-dong, Seoul, Korea

Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai (툭툭누들타이)

Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai was one of the first restaurants that got popular in the Yeonnam-dong district even before the construction walls came down and Gyeongui Line Forest Park (Yeontral Park) opened. The restaurant was definitely one that led to the area becoming well known for good eats. It was once located in the basement of a small building but is now in a three story building with ample seating and great Thai dishes.

Lines can be seen outside of this restaurant on weekends, so stop in during the week if you can. The dishes on the menu are a collaboration between a local Korean owner and a chef who is originally from the Issan province in northern Thailand which is famous for delicious spicy food.

  • Address: 161-8 Sungmisan-ro Mapo-gu, Seoul (마포구 성미산로 161-8)
  • Hours: Monday – Friday: 11:30am ~ 10:00pm (Break time: 3:30pm ~ 5:00pm); Saturday & Sunday: 11:30am ~ 10:00pm, No Break Time

Soi Yeonnam by Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai, Yeonnam-dong, Seoul, Korea

Soi Yeonnam-dong by Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai (소이연남)

This Thai style soup shop is the little sister of the Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai shop down the road and was opened in 2014 and still consistently has lines out the door as of 2019. Soi serves up dishes from a pretty short menu but they serve them up mighty well. There is almost always a line outside of this shop and for damn good reason. Oh, is their food very Thai and very mouth-watering.

All of Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai’s locations in the area are worth a visit, but this one will do you just right for a quick stop on the way to or from the park… when there is no line. This shop has less options on the menu than Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai around the corner, but what they do have is good good good.

  • Address: 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (마포구 연남동 229-67)
  • Hours: Every day: 11:00am ~9:40pm

Want something to do before or after you eat? Here are some good ideas nearby:


What To See In Yeonnam-dong

Gyeongui Line Forest Park (경의선숲길공원)

This park was under construction for the first six years that I lived in the area so when it was finally unveiled, it was thrilling. Not only is the park, a restoration project in the area, beautiful but it has really made the neighborhood vibrant and lively where it had been extremely quiet and rather ugly with huge construction walls before. The park is long and thin as it runs along where the Gyeongui railway line once ran. You can still see parts of the train tracks in the park though now the Gyeongui rail line is actually running beneath the park.

There is a small stream in the park and events are held there throughout the year. Visitors will mainly stay at the eastern end of the park, but definitely walk all the way until the park ends. It’s not that far, just a few blocks really, and it runs into the Hongjaecheon Stream. If you’re interested in having a picnic near Hongdae, then definitely head here. You can grab food at numerous spots in the area and then take a seat on the grass with friends.

Yeonnam-dong, Seoul, Korea: Painted home
Yeonnam-dong, Seoul, Korea: Painted home

Street Art & Murals

Hongdae, or Hongik University district, the popular neighborhood just across the street has long been famous for street art and murals as well as live music so it’s no wonder that aesthetic hopped over the street into Yeonnam-dong. While other areas are well known for their mural clad walls and colorful entrances, Yeonnam-dong has not gotten hyped up for the beautiful exteriors so many of the buildings and tunnels in the area possess. Maybe that’s a good thing though.

While some locals in other popular mural laden districts have taken to painting over murals because they don’t like the onslaught of visitors, that issue doesn’t come up here because no one is really going for a wander off of the well laid out side walks and grassy lawns from the subway station. GO FOR A WANDER! DO IT!

The alleys can be narrow, the cafes small, but the murals and mosaics are colorful and the coffee delicious. Follow the park back as far as it goes AWAY from Hongdae and you’ll find mosaics in tunnels and go right and you’ll find murals few see.


There’s more to do nearby. Here are some more ideas:


Cafes To Visit In Yeonnam-dong

Cafe hopping is an absolute must when you visit Seoul. From the Brooklyn of Seoul known as Seongsu-dong to Myeongdong, the popular shopping district in Seoul, there are cafes cafes and more cafes to find. Check these out in Yeonnam-dong, but don’t miss nearby Mangwon-dong which has just as many cool cafes to check out too and is still relatively unknown to tourists.

Greem Cafe (그림카페)

This super popular café went viral for the unique decor which is done in 2D so it’s as if you’ve stepped into a cartoon world and you’re the only thing standing out. It was also featured in the recent movie ‘To All The Boys: Always and Forever‘. It’s very cool and a bit trippy to walk into but a very cool spot that you can’t miss if you’re looking for one of the coolest cafes in Seoul.

  • Address: 161-10 Seongmisan-ro, Mapo-gu (마포구 성미산로 161-10)
  • Hours: Wednesdays – Sundays: 12:00pm ~ 8:00pm

Coffee Nap Roasters (커피냅로스터스 연남동)

This cafe stands out for aesthetics and design. From the exterior you might think it’s like any other simple modern cafe, but enter and you’ll find a purposefully sculpted mound of bricks. When asked why or if there was something beneath the mound that was covered during construction, the barista casually said it was just their concept. What a concept it is.

Order at the counter and then sit on the mound or grab a seat on a bench that surrounds the bricks to look at them while you sip. It’s a very interesting and extremely unique cafe in the Yeonnam-dong area. It also opens a bit earlier than most cafes in the area which is awesome for the early risers among us… like me.

  • Address: 70 Seongmisan-ro 27-gil Mapo-gu (마포구 성미산로 27길 70)
  • Hours: Every day: 9:00am ~ 10:00pm

However (하우에버)

Samhwa Paints and castella go hand in hand like… find out by visiting However out of the Hongik University Subway Station, exit 3 direction. Receive a cup of edible “paint” that you pour over your favorite flavored castella cake and then take a bite. The entire multi-story cafe is fun, vibrant colors, and fun photo-op spaces.

  • Address: 45-6 Yeonhui-ro 1-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul (서울 마포구 연희로1길 45-6)
  • Every day: 11:30am ~ 10:00pm

Nado Juice (나도쥬스)

This is my go-to spot for fresh squeezed juice in the area. Natural and healthy juice took Korea by storm in 2016 and juice shops abounded but that doesn’t mean they’re all the same. Nado Juice produces some natural, healthy and homemade juices, smoothies and extracts so you can make your own teas at home. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle doesn’t have to be burdensome. Nado Juice is the place to stop after a walk for some delicious yet healthy and satisfying drinks.

This shop is at the very end of the park so you’d have to walk all the way through the area, but it’s a great way to see everything on the way to the larger Hongjaecheon Stream which features a beautiful and rather huge waterfall that only locals know about. Take the walk to the very end to find some local secret spots.

  • Address: 1 Yeonnam-ro 13-gil, Mapo-gu (마포구 13길 연남로 1)
  • Hours: Monday – Friday: 8:00am ~ 8:00pm; Saturday: 11:00am ~ 9:00pm

Ver’s Garden & House (벌스)

Ver’s is one of those overgrown, plants everywhere, you can hide in little corners and around walls and even on the rooftop spots. Basically, one of my favorite cafes in the area. You’ll want to walk through the entire space to really see what there is to see and find the perfect spot for you and yours. Grab some coffee or delightfully minty ades and fall into a leather couch or find the rooftop space when the sun is shining.

Plants are lovingly cared for and you can even purchase one of your own to take home. This is one of those spots you’ll love as soon as you enter if you like a space that is filled to capacity with a ton to look at.

  • Address: 44 Seongmisan-ro 23-gil Mapo-gu, Seoul (마포구 성미산로23길 44)
  • Hours: Monday: 3:00pm ~ 10:00pm; Tuesday – Sunday: 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm

Yeonnam Bangagan (연남방앗간)

Right on the main thoroughfare that faces the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, this cafe is a bit of chameleon as it is often hosting events and pop-ups. We went this past summer for the Ben & Jerry’s Pop-Up and had an amazing time. The space is usually rather decadent feeling with hard dark wood walls from floor to ceiling and chandeliers hanging, but add in some quirky ice-cream eccentrics and the space was really transformed. Head by to see what they have going on because it’s sure to be something fun. At the very least, it’s a good place to get coffee with a good view of the park.

  • Address: Mapo-gu Donggyo-ro 29-gil  34 (마포구 동교로 29길 34)
  • Hours: Monday – Friday: 12:00pm ~ 9:00pm; Saturday & Sunday: 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm

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5 Comments

  • Chantell

    It is incredible to hear that some places are actually painting over their murals because of too many tourists. Wow – I never thought about that. It’s good to hear that this place has been able to maintain it’s low profile, whilst still being a beautiful area with a lot of stunning art work. I would love to take a wander.

  • John Rodgers

    Some of the murals are really great. I will add them all to my Street Art Board in Pinterest for you. We were to go to Korea last July when we left Mongolia and somehow went to Nepal instead. Wish I had chosen Korea I think.

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