The first time I saw yukhoe (육회) on the table I thought they were going to stir fry it on the grill. In fairness, you often encounter yukhoe at Korean BBQ restaurants where there’s a large grill in the center of the table, the assumption is reasonable. For this dish, though, the grill stays cold. Yukhoe is best enjoyed raw, exactly as it comes. Was I intent on eating raw beef and a raw egg the first time I saw it? I was not. I’m glad I did it anyway, because yukhoe is now one of my favorite Korean dishes, full of umami, genuinely distinctive from Western steak tartare, and…