If you’re looking for the serenity of a Buddhist temple set high in the mountains, Jogyesa Temple (조계사) is not for you. Right in the center of Seoul, in the middle of the daily bustle that makes the city what it is, sits the headquarters of Korean Buddhism, a temple with more than a century of modern history and 1,700 years of tradition behind it. The streets of Insadong don’t quiet down when you step onto the temple grounds. They’re still audible from the courtyard. But those who come here regularly have apparently become masters of meditation, because Jogyesa is an active place of practice, prayers happen here daily, monks…