Things To Do In Mullae-dong: A Guide To The Street Art and Culinary Scene
Want to get off the beaten path in Seoul and find something a little different? A little noisy? A little colorful? Definitely cool? Head to Mullae-dong. An area built around metalworks factories and popularized in recent years by artists that moved south from Hongdae when it got too expensive.
You won’t know what you’ll find around every corner but there are plenty of murals, regenerated cafes, and restaurants to hang out in. Here’s one neighborhood in Seoul you won’t find a lot of information about online, but that just means it’s up to you to explore it.
Find out more about Mullae-dong in Seoul, Korea:
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How To Get There
Directions: Mullae Station Exit 7. At the first street on your left turn left and then an immediate right into a small alley begin searching down the alleys from there.
Looking at the map, you can see a “triangle” around Yankees Grill and Wave. Most of the street art is in that area so you should be walking in and out of the alleys there. From there, continue walking down Dorim-ro 12-gil where the steel factories are and you can see more and find steps to the rooftops. From there, cut down to cross the main street to get to where Rust Bakery is. This is a good path to follow to get your bearings.
The History of Metal Works
The original name of the area was Sacheon-ri which can be translated to mean ‘Sand Village’. At the time mudflats were in abundance. After the Japanese colonization of Korea, the name was changed to Saokeong which is translated to mean ‘Weaving Village’. It was during this time that a large number of Japanese textile companies moved into the area and still today you can see buildings with Japanese architectural elements because of that. The Japanese left and in the 60s the textile industry transformed into steel plants.
In the 1970s, Mullae-dong was the home to a large number of small scale steel factories. While you can still see a number of small steel factories there today, it’s nothing like what it used to be. In the 80s manufactured goods from China came pouring in to the country and on top of that the financial crisis that struck in the 90s, numerous factories had to leave and find areas with lower rent. Fast forward a decade and Hongdae, a district that was popular for underground music, artists and generally a cheap student vibe was becoming more and more popular and artists that had found refuge in the area could no longer afford rent so they moved south.
Around 2005 artists from Hongdae and Daehagno started flocking to the neighborhood for cheap rent and now scattered amidst the iron foundries and steel factories that heat up the place by day are artistsโ studios that light up the place by night. There are also hidden galleries for exhibitions. Groups like Crazy Multiply use these spaces to exhibit new and upcoming artists. More cafes and restaurants have begun to move in but gentrification is slow in this area and unlike Seongsu-dong where cafes and restaurants have largely taken over the old factories.
Here the factories that are left are staples. Skilled technicians work throughout the day and sparks continue to fly. With the opening of the Seoul Art Space Mullae by the Seoul Foundation for Arts and Culture in 2010, there has been a steady increase of artists moving to the area.
Arts and Culture Today
Sparks fly from every direction and the sound of metal being beaten into submission fills the ears as you walk the alleys of Mullae-dong. Gruff looking men covered in light layers of dust with sweat dripping from their foreheads stand and sit in the garages that line the narrow streets. Mullae-dong, known for its metal working factories is getting more and more coverage for artists that have recently relocated to the district.
Itโs one of those neighborhoods where things are not pristine and put together but rather piles of seemingly random objects spill from the buildings into the streets. This district is unlike other “mural villages” or hot spots for street art in Seoul so be prepared for that. While Ihwa Mural Village was decorated purely to bring people to the area and as such maps were installed to make it easy to get around and find street art, this neighborhood offers up no easy to use map to guide passerby.
Here in Mullae-dong though, buildings are old and decrepit with paint peeling and cement disintegrating, they have an appeal all their own. Seeing people that can still use their hands to make things and donโt spend all day sitting on computers is pretty charming as well but the murals here weren’t planned per se as the other mural villages in Seoul.
The alleys are small, but easy enough to walk through and navigate. As the graffiti and art is dispersed throughout the area, itโs best to zig-zag through the alleys from one end of the block to the other. On our second pass we realized weโd been passing artist studios that were shuttered up for the day only to be opened in the coming evening. Itโs best to take it slow and enjoy the atmosphere only an old dingy neighborhood like this can harbor.
Where To Eat and Drink
As Mullae-dong is very different than the other popular and touristy mural villages in Seoul, you really need to know where to go before you go. There aren’t signs and there are a ton of alleys. Here are some places to look for and at the bottom are directions for finding street art.
Cafes in Mullae-dong
Rust Bakery (๋ฌ์คํธ ๋ฒ ์ด์ปค๋ฆฌ)
After perusing the street art and murals, don’t miss a stop into Rust Bakery. The name seems especially fitting for the rusty metal that abounds nearby. The bakery has croissants, cinnamon buns, cheese cakes and pretty much anything to hit that bready sweet treat urge you’re looking for. It’s bright, it’s cheery and the rustic aesthetic is fitting in the neighborhood.
- Address: 42-19 Mullae-dong 2-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋ฌธ๋๋2๊ฐ 42-19)
- Hours: Every day: 11:00am ~ 10:00pm
Mullae Banggu (๋ฌธ๋๋ฐฉ๊ตฌ)
Famous for their peanut bread, a popular wintertime street food usually, pick up a bag of delicious fried dough with peanut chunks and powdered sugar. It’s a great snack on the go or sit in and enjoy it before you head off.
- Address: 763 Gyeongin-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๊ฒฝ์ธ๋ก 763)
- Hours: Monday – Friday: 11:30am ~ 7:00pm; Saturday – Sunday: 12:00pm ~ 8:00pm
Cafe Mokki (๋ชจํค๋ฌธ๋)
A beautiful tea house with a simple contemporary design, the main feature is a large communal black table in the center of the room. It’s a beautiful modern space where you can get coffee or tea and watch the people go by.
- Address: 732 Gyeongin-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๊ฒฝ์ธ๋ก 732)
- Hours: Every day: 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm
Restaurants in Mullae-dong
Goat Deli (๊ณ ํธ๋ธ๋ฆฌ)
Some of the best sandwiches in the area to be sure, Goat Deli has a striking exterior and rustic interior. Choose from Jambon Beurre, Apple Bacon, or Jambon Fromage, or my favorite, Oldschool Pastrami.
- Address: 14 Dorim-ro 139-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธํน๋ณ์ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋๋ฆผ๋ก139๊ธธ 14)
- Hours: Every day: 11:30am ~ 9:00pm
Yankees Burger (์ํค์ค๋ฒ๊ฑฐ)
Looking for that hipster but delicious hamburger joint, then look no further than Yankees Burger. Try the Mullae Burger, named for the area obviously, you get a patty on an oatmeal bun topped with sautรฉed mushrooms and truffle oil. I can never pass up a burger, can you?
- Address: 58-75 Mullae-dong 3-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋ฌธ๋๋3๊ฐ 58-75)
- Hours: Every day 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm; Break time: 3:30pm~ 5:00pm
Yankees Grill
Yes, Yankees Grill is also owned by the same people that own Yankees Burger. They liked the area so much, they opened a second spot. A red neon sign welcomes visitors in but you’ll smell the steaks aromas wafting down the alley before you even see the shop. If you’re looking for a New York steak, this is the stop for you.
- Address: 58-74 Mullae-dong 3-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋ฌธ๋๋3๊ฐ 58-74)
- Hours: Every day: 12:00pm ~ 10:00pm; Break time: 3:30pm ~ 5:00pm
Old Mullae
If you head to the area a bit later in the day and want to see as the steel factories close and the artists rock up for the evening, then also head to this vintage-styled pub. The building from the 1930s has been kept relatively intact with its original Japanese wooden framework. Filled with art and repurposed machinerie, this is a cafรฉ by day and a pub by night. Stop in for those throw-back vibes.
- Address: 14-28 Mullae-dong 2-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋ฌธ๋๋2๊ฐ 14-28)
- Hours: Thursday – Saturday: 10:00am ~ 2:00am; Sunday: 12:00pm ~ 11:00pm; Monday – Wednesday: 10:00am ~ 1:00am
Waves (์จ์ด๋ธ์ค)
Across from the colorful mural above you’ll find this Hawaiian style gastropub opened by sculptor Lee Daeseok who converted an old steel factory from the 1970s. The waves and movement of the seating against the industrial beams and walls outfitted with loads of greenery is definitely a spot I want to head back to. The restaurant is suited for the solo diner and groups and offers up a menu of Hawaiian cuisine and craft beers.
- Address: 58-34 Mullae-dong 3-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋ฌธ๋๋3๊ฐ 58-34)
- Hours: Every day: 11:30am ~ 1:00am
Peace (ํํ)
You could easily walk right by Peace and not realize this cool coffee and wine bar is inside. The dark interior can seem foreboding, but it’s actually very welcoming. Since we’d just eaten, we had their sweet potato and ice cream for a dessert and it was delightful.
- Address: 13 Dorim-ro 131-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (์์ธ ์๋ฑํฌ๊ตฌ ๋๋ฆผ๋ก131๊ธธ 13)
- Hours: Monday – Thursday: 1:00pm ~ Midnight; Friday: 1:00pm ~ 1:00am; Saturday – Sunday: 12:00pm ~ Midnight
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