Ikseon-dong has become one of the most popular little Hanok villages in downtown Seoul, and if you understand the difference between this neighborhood and Bukchon, you’ll have a much better visit to both. People go to Bukchon Hanok Village to see the traditional Hanok homes in their grandeur. People go to Ikseon-dong to eat, drink makgeolli in a cozy courtyard, and stumble on something unexpected behind a door that looks like every other door on the alley. The shops and restaurants here pay homage to the history of the area while doing something a bit more creative with it. Old Hanoks become fog-filled hot pot restaurants, salt bread bakeries with…