A Complete Guide For How To Visit The DMZ From Seoul

Not only was I featured on CNN for sharing some hidden gems in the DMZ, but I’ve been there multiple times over my more than 15 years living in Korea. If you want to visit the DMZ or take a DMZ tour, or maybe you’re wondering how to visit JSA, then you’ve come to the right spot for all of the information you’ll need to plan the trek. I say trek, but it’s actually easier than you might think.

The DMZ in Korea can be closed for any number of political reasons so you’ll want to know everything you can about where you can and can’t go if the actual entrances in are blocked to tourists. Even when they are, there are areas you CAN visit to still get a peak north… Ready to learn more? Let’s figure out how to get to the DMZ from Seoul and more.

What you need to know to plan a trip to the DMZ in Korea:

• What Is The DMZ?
• Where Is The DMZ?
• What You Need To Know About Visiting The DMZ
• What’s the difference between the DMZ and JSA?
• Tours To The DMZ
• The Most Popular DMZ Area: Imjingak Resort
  • What You Can See
    • The Bridge Of Freedom (자유의다리)
    • Peace Park (임진각평화누리)
    • DMZ Gondola (파주디엠지곤돌라)
    • Camp Greaves (캠프그리브스)
    • Third Tunnel (제3땅굴)
    • Dora Observatory (도라전망대)
    • Dorasan Station (도라산역)
    • The Joint Security Area (JSA)
    • Odusan Unification Observatory (오두산 통일전망대)
• A Hidden Natural DMZ Gem: Cheorwon
  • Things to know about heading to the Cheorwon DMZ area
  • What You Can See
    • North Korean Labor Party Building (노동당사)
    • Woljeong-ri Station (월정리역)
    • Cheorwan Peace Observatory (철원평화전망대)
    • Second Underground Tunnel (제2땅굴)
    • Cheorwon Plains (Migratory Bird Habitat) (철원평야(철새도래지))

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What Is The DMZ?

DMZ stands for demilitarized zone and is the area between North Korea and South Korea. This buffer zone or no-man’s land exists because of the Korean War, which technically never ended though there are always discussions on peace. Measuring four kilometers in width and 250 kilometers long, the DMZ was put in place in 1953 when the Armistice Agreement was signed.

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Where Is The DMZ?

The DMZ runs the entire northern border of South Korea so while there are more popular areas of the DMZ where tourists visit, there are more areas than just one spot to find the DMZ. Below, I’ll share points along the DMZ where you can visit starting with the easiest and most popular and going from there. I’ve also made a note where you can visit that’s really really close even when you can’t get inside the DMZ. When tours are closed, fear not, there are still some really cool spots to check out to see what you can see and learn what you can learn.

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What You Need To Know About Visiting The DMZ

• You MUST Be On A Tour: You can get pretty darn close to the DMZ without being on a tour, and I’m going to tell you how, but you CANNOT enter the DMZ unless you’re actually on a tour with an official tour company with a registered guide. This is the info that you’ll find most places. There are parts of the Civilian Control Zone that you can enter though even without a tour too.
• You MUST Have An ID/Passport: You’ll need to show your ARC (local Alien Registration Card)/passport in order to enter the DMZ. If you’re a resident, you should be fine with your ARC, I’ve used mine on two separate tours, BUT to be safe, take your passport. Every major tour company will tell you you must have your passport for a tour, so take it or they probably won’t let you on their bus. I went with two companies that said my ARC was fine though. Just my experience.
• Be Aware Of Your Clothes: There is sort of a dress code for visiting the DMZ though I’ve just gone casual and never had issue. BUT, they do recommend that you don’t wear sandals, especially if you’ll be going down into the tunnels. You also shouldn’t wear ripped jeans or clothing as they say that North Korea may take photos of the tourists watching them and use it as false propaganda.
• Be Mindful Of Movements: When looking out into North Korea from any vantage point, you’ll be instructed not to wave, point, or make signals toward North Korea. Just assume that you’re being watched.

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What’s the difference between the DMZ and JSA?

You might be surprised on your tour if you sign up to see the DMZ and then don’t see the blue buildings that are often portrayed on the news when talking about North and South Korea. DMZ, as mentioned above, refers to the demilitarized zone but JSA is specifically the Joint Security Area which is as close as you can get to North Korea.

While most people want to visit the JSA when they’re talking about the DMZ, it’s usually the area that is often closed to tourists. While it is though, you can often visit other parts of the DMZ and that’s one reason I’m writing this. A lot of people think when the JSA is closed, they can’t visit the DMZ. They are a bit different though and tours may still run to other parts of the DMZ. So keep that in mind.

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Tours To The DMZ

While there are areas that you can visit on your own around Imjingak and other civilian control points, a tour is the best way to really learn and get an education on the DMZ from the past and today. There are quite a few tours that even have North Korean defectors as the guide so there is a lot you can learn.

Note Age Restrictions: It’s important to note that not all tour companies allow children below the age of 10 on tours to the JSA. If you’re planning a trip to the DMZ/JSA, make sure to check with the tour company if you plan on taking small children. Children must be accompanied by a parent at all times.

Tours You Can Take:

• Popular Tour Option To The DMZ From Seoul: This tour takes visitors to the Imjingak DMZ area. The stops include Imjingak Park, the Freedom Bridge, the Third Infiltration Tunnel, Dora Observatory, and the DMZ Exhibition Hall.
  • Tour Length: 6.5 hours long. Starts at 8:00am and ends at 2:30pm
  • Reasons To Book: Easy to book and cancel if necessary on Klook. Free cancellation with 48 hours notice. English speaking guides.
• Viator Tours: Viator has a great round up of tour options with both half day and full day tour options. You can include other stops in the region or stick to the basics of the DMZ.
  • Tour Length: Ranges from 6 hours to 9 hours depending on which tour you book.
  • Reasong To Book: Free cancellation, English speaking guides.
• DMZ Tour with the Joint Security Area (JSA): Currently the JSA isn’t open to tourists. When it is, I’ll update this tour option.

Timing: Most tours require a 2-5 day advance reservation, so plan accordingly.

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The Most Popular DMZ Area: Imjingak Resort (임진각관간지)

The most popular area to visit the DMZ for visitors/tourists in Seoul usually includes a stop at Imjingak Park, Freedom Bridge, Dorasan Station, Dora Observatory, and the Third Tunnel. What a lot of people want to see when they go to the DMZ, but often can’t due to restrictions, another tour up to/through the Imjingak area visits the Joint Security Area (JSA), Odusan Unification Observatory, the Third Tunnel, and Dora Observatory.

Called a resort, but don’t expect a hotel with a swimming pool or anything. Picture a giant parking lot with various things to see and do that surround it. You can actually visit the Imjingak area on your own and there’s a lot to do there. If you want to go further in, you’ll need a guide, BUT, here’s what you can do at Imjingak and then how to go further in from there if you want to plan your own trip.

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What You Can See

The Bridge Of Freedom (자유의다리)

The bridge that is both a symbol of and named for freedom is where prisoners were exchanged after the war. The bridge is blocked off now and the fence leading to it is covered in hopeful prayer ribbons. There is an old rusted train that is on display here as well that is riddled with bullets from the war and, if you look out for it, you’ll spot an entrance to an underground exhibition area here too. Koreans with family in the north often come to this point to pray, especially around big Korean holidays, so remember to be respectful and quiet when you’re in this area.

• Address: 1400-6 Majeong-ri, Munsan-eub, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do (경기 파주시 문산읍 마정리 1400-6)
• Note: You do not need a tour to visit this.

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Peace Park (임진각평화누리)

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DMZ Gondola (파주디엠지곤돌라)

One of the newest additions to the Imjingak Resort area is the DMZ Gondola. To take the ride, you’ll need to show your ID/Passport and then once to the other side, you can visit Camp Greaves, previously an American installation in the DMZ. Check out more below. This is a fun ride if you have the time and want to enter the civilian control zone in the easiest way there is.

• Address: 148-73 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eub, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do (경기 파주시 문산읍 임진각로 148-73)
• Hours: Weekdays: 10:00am ~ 6:00pm; Weekends: 9:00am ~ 6:00pm
• Admission: W7,000 ~ W14,000 (Price depends on whether you choose the glass bottom or the regular.)
• Note: You do not need a tour to visit this.

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Camp Greaves (캠프그리브스)

When I first visited Camp Greaves, the only way to get there was to take a bus over a bridge where our passports were checked but since the gondola was built, now that’s how you get to this former American military installation in the DMZ. Today, Camp Greaves is an art, culture, and history complex inside of the Paju Civilian Control Zone. This is a really interesting place to learn more about the DMZ as the artistic exhibitions are promoting peace and display references to history. This is a unique look at the DMZ as you’re in the Civilian Control Zone and on a former American installation. Learn more about Camp Greaves in my full post here.

• Note: You do not need a tour to visit this.

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Third Tunnel (제3땅굴)

Discovered in 1978, the 1635 meter long tunnel was made by North Korea though they denied it at first. This is one of four tunnels that have been dug by North Korea and found. To enter, you’ll get a locker to place your belongings in and then be given a helmet to don because the tunnel is narrow and low.

The tunnel is steep! Be prepared to huff and puff. To be honest, I don’t think the tunnel is any more interesting than other tunnels in Korea… or anywhere, except that the story and information behind it is.

• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Dora Observatory (도라전망대)

Either before or after the station, visitors are taken up to the Dora Observatory which sits at the top of Dorasan Mountain. Take a look out into North Korea. You can see Kijong-dong Propaganda Village from the viewpoint and on really clear days, you’d be able to spot Kaesong, a special industrial area where both North Koreans and South Koreans can work side by side.

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Dorasan Station (도라산역)

Often the final destination on tours is Dorasan Station. This is the last train station before the border and is a symbol of the peaceful future. The idea is that some day, when there is peace, this train line will continue north and south and families can re-unite. Visitors can get a fake ticket to Pyeongyang and even have it stamped.

• Address: 307 Huimang-ro, Jeongdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do (경기 파주시 장단면 희망로 307)
• Train Operations: There used to be a train that operated from Yongsan Station all the way up to Dorasan Station which was a cool way to get there as well. It ceased awhile back, but hopefully one day they start operations again.
  • Tour schedule: Depart from Yongsan Station (10:08) – Seoul Station (10:15) – Arrive at Imjingang Station (11:24) – Complete identity check (11:32) – Arrive at Dorasan Station and board connecting bus (11:43) – Dorasan Peace Park (12:10) – Lunch break at Tongilchon (Unification Village) (13:00) – Dora Observatory (14:00) – The 3rd Tunnel (14:40) – Tour Unification Platform (15:50) – Depart from Dorasan Station (16:27) – Seoul Station (17:47) – Arrive at Yongsan Station (17:54)
  • Train Tickets: Adults: W36,000; Children: W33,000
  • For More Information

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The Joint Security Area (JSA)

The closest point a tourist can get to North Korea. One of those spots that everyone wants to see in person, the JSA tour may or may not be opened and it depends on the political tensions at the time. If restrictions are heightened, then you’ll likely be able to go to the stops above, but not this one. If you can see it though, this is the blue building spot that you see in the news and will recognize easily.

Generally for tours to this area, visitors first visit Camp Bonifas, a United Nations command post that houses the United Nations Command Security Battalion whose mission is to monitor and enforce the Korean Armistice Agreement. You’ll see the Unification Bridge, Freedom House, Demarcation Line, MAC Building, and Bridge of No Return.

• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Odusan Unification Observatory (오두산 통일전망대)

An observatory on Odusan mountain, use the binoculars to get a closer look into North Korea. The observatories are all relatively the same. Head up to the top, look through the binoculars and see what you can catch a glimpse of.

• Address: 369 Pilseung-ro, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do (경기도 파주시 탄현면 필승로 369)
• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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A Hidden Natural DMZ Gem: Cheorwon

Most tourists and even long term residents and travelers will head to the Imjingak DMZ area, but there’s another DMZ tour area just northwest of Seoul in Cheorwon.

Cheorwon is special because it’s more natural and untouched so a lot of visitors, and specifically birdwatchers, will go to see the yearly migrations of cranes and other birds that stop here while simultaneously taking a tour of the DMZ. Cheorwon is a special area with some major sites from war to see, but also a ton of natural wonder.

When I first went for a tour, tours started from the Cheorwon Facilities Management Office formerly Iron Triangle Tourist Office (철원 시설물관리사업소 (구 철의삼각전적관)). Now, it looks like you can search the Tourist Information Center or 철원 DMZ 형화관광안내센터 and that’s where you’ll start. Surprise, the two places I just mentioned are the same spot but there’s been some changes there.

Anyway, visitors must stop here to get on a tour. If you take your own car, a guide may jump into your car, or you’ll be asked to join a caravan behind another car that has the guide. If you don’t have a car, you’ll need to get a taxi that can also enter the DMZ.

• Address: 1825 Taebong-ro, Cheorwon-gun, Gangwon-do (강원도 철원군 동송읍 태봉로 1823)

Things to know about heading to the Cheorwon DMZ area:

• Reservation in advance is not allowed. You must get to the DMZ Peace Tourist Information Center on time. If you miss the time to enter with the guide, you will not be permitted to enter. Make sure you plan how you’re getting there to a T.
• Tour departure times are 10:00am and 2:00pm Wednesdays through Mondays. CLOSED on Tuesdays.
  • Note that registration for a tour closes 15 minutes prior to the times listed above so you can’t rock up AT 10:00am or 2:00pm and jump on a tour. You need time to fill in forms.
  • On-site registration is first-come first-serve basis.
• The tour takes approximately 2 and a half hours.
• You must carry your ID to enter.
• Check the local Cheorwon Tourism website for updates and seasonal adjustments to times.

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What You Can See

North Korean Labor Party Building (노동당사)

The building was built in 1946 and used until the armistice in 1953 by the party. North Korea controlled this area for five years as it falls above the 38^th parallel but during the Korean War this area came under the control of South Korea and UN forces and when the armistice was signed was still under the control of the South. The bullet holes and loss of the ceiling of the building are blunt reminders of the violence this area saw and though there was once a vibrant and large city here, now there are just rice paddies and checkpoints.

• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Woljeong-ri Station (월정리역)

The building is just the shell of what it once was, a stop on the Seoul-Gangwon line, but sitting in the back is an old North Korean transport train, bombed by American forces. Woljeong-ri Station is the last stop before reaching the DMZ and is the spot where the fiercest battle was held during the Korean War.

• Address: 1882 Durumi-ro, Cheorwon-gun, Gangwon-do (강원도 철원군 철원읍 두루미로 1882 (철원읍))
• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Cheorwan Peace Observatory (철원평화전망대)

From here, you’ll be able to take in the views out of the DMZ. There is a monorail here that will take you up so it’s easier to get to and you can use the binoculars to catch a glimpse of what you can see on the other side of the DMZ.

• Address: 588-14 Junggang-ri, Cheorwon-gun, Gangwon-do (강원도 철원군 동송읍 중강리 588-14)
• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Second Underground Tunnel (제2땅굴)

Discovered on March 19th, 1975, a soldier heard an explosion beneath the ground and there it was. The tunnel is 3.5 kilometers long and is 50-160 meters deep. Don a hard hat and descend into the wet and dark tunnel.

• Note: You do need a tour to visit this.

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Cheorwon Plains (Migratory Bird Habitat) (철원평야(철새도래지))

If you are interested in birdwatching and you’re in Korea, well you probably already know, maybe this is for the people that don’t, the Cheorwon Plains sees 30% of the world’s wild crane population during migration season. And that’s just the cranes. There are 110 species of birds that migrate through Cheorwon and use the calm surroundings as a natural habitat to feast when they stop through. To view the amazing bird scenery, you’ll want to visit Cheorwon between the beginning of January and the end of February.

You’d still start from the same place as mentioned above, but the tours are a bit different with this one being on the tour focused on migratory birds. Tours also stop at Togyo Reservoir, Sapseulbong Peak, and Saemtong.

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The DMZ isn’t just one place. It seems that a lot of tourists don’t realize that. There’s more places to go than you might realize. And there are plenty of things you can do on your own pretty close to the civilian control zone as well.

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