Moon Bird Only Thinks of the Moon: The Best Traditional Tea House In Insadong
(Unfortunately, I’ve found out this long standing tea house in Insadong is now CLOSED!) Little wooden doorways that open up into dark cinnamon and ginger scent filled tea houses are scattered around Insadong, but it can take a trained eye to spot the good ones in this popular touristy district of Seoul.
There are bigger, brighter and busier cafes that sit on the main Insadong drag, but if you want the intimate experience, you have to head down the small alleys and keep your eyes peeled. These little doorways that slide open can seem uninviting when closed and it’s easy to pass by assuming the establishment inside is not open for business or is maybe even a private establishment that you’re just not supposed to enter.
Once the door is slid open and the scent of delicious teas and rice cakes comes wafting into the street however, it’s clear they are not only open but worth a lengthy visit. Moon Bird Only Thinks Of The Moon/Dalsaeneun Dalman Saenggakhanda (달새는달만생각한다) is by far my favorite traditional tea house in the district but more than that it really is one of, if not, THE best traditional tea cafes in Insadong.
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After wandering through the alleyways of the traditional Bukchon Hanok Village or watching the changing of the guard and seeing the magnificent Gyeongbokgung Palace or maybe seeing the oft overlooked but beautiful Unhyeongung Royal Residence, head into the popular Insadong district for a bite to eat at Oh Sae Gyae Hyang and then go next door for some delectable tea at Moon Bird Only Thinks Of The Moon. Insadong is a popular touristy area that houses both traditional spots and more up to date galleries and fun. There are plenty of places to rent Hanboks and it’s definitely the area to buy all of the local Korean souvenirs you want to take home with you. Before you go shopping though.. head into the Moon Bird Only Thinks Of The Moon… if you can find it.
How To Get To Moon Bird Only Thinks Of The Moon
Address: 14-3 Insadong 12-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (서울 종로구 인사동12길 14-3)
By Subway: The easiest way to get to the cafe is via subway as the cafe doesn’t have parking. Go to Anguk Subway Station, exit 6. Walk straight to the main Insadong street which you’ll see just after the Information Center and turn left. Turn left down the fourth small alley, though you’ll probably be well onto the street without realizing you’ve passed the first one so it’ll seem as though it’s the third alley.
If you come to the Ssamzie Space entrance on your left you’ve gone too far, turn at the alley just before you get to Ssamzie. Walking down this alley, you go almost to the very end. It actually looks like you’ve come to the end before you’ll see the doorway. If it seems too far.. just take a few more steps to find the doorway.
Basic Info To Know
Hours: Weekdays: 11:30am ~ 10:30pm; Weekends: 11:00pm ~ 10:30pm
Cost: Teas cost W6,500 – W9,000 and small snacks are provided with the tea.
The name is a mouthful, but the tea quenches a thirst you won’t know you had. The Hanok house cluttered with quirky decor and scribbled walls allows the eye to comfortably wander during the silent pauses in conversation.
Large jars of concoctions in various fermented forms sit on shelves around the cafe. Black and white photographs cling to the wall and oil lamps, saucers, and gardening tools along with newspaper clippings are hung nonchalantly everywhere else.
Previous guests’ handwritten love declarations and messages are scribbled on every part of the walls and windows and some have even taken to the tables. This is a tea house that you have to know about to find because while it’s on the map, the doorway is hidden away enough that you could walk right by, back and forth numerous times without realizing you’re right in front of it.
I myself have done this a few times and then remembered the door just as someone from inside slid it open. Ah ha! There you are, I thought.
There are tables with booth seating and more traditional floor seating options as well. I usually sit near the front in the private booths though have also taken a seat on the floor when a tourist I was with requested it and that room was also intriguing to sit in with the light flowing in and the various decorations to look at.
The tea is served in huge tea cups and is accompanied by rice cakes and other traditional snacks to munch on. The menu is written in Korean, English, Japanese and Chinese to cater to the patrons that wander in off the street and the waitresses are always within earshot and calmly and patiently ready to assist guests with any questions regarding the tea.
The tables are placed surrounded by walls for the most part to give a feeling of overwhelming coziness and private conversations can easily be had between friends or couples.
The tea cups are served on wooden saucers which means there is no loud clanking when the cups are returned to their place after a sip which goes further in keeping the intimate and serene ambiance of the tea house. Moon Bird Only Thinks of the Moon is hidden away, but if you have the time to seek it out, it’s worth a gander along with a delicious cup of tea.
My personal favorite is the Sujeonggwa. This tea is made with cinnamon bark and is the perfect thirst quencher that’s a bit sweet but always delicious and can be served iced as well as warm.
After you visit the tea house, there is plenty to do in Insadong. For some fun, head up the street to the Running Man Thematic Experience Center. Based off of the worldwide popular television show, it’s fun and competitive and great for all ages.
If you’re headed to a tea house in Korea and want to know what’s on the menu, these terms might help you. Here are some of the common tea varieties you’ll find in tea houses and at cafes, what they’re called in Korean, and what we’d call them in English:
- Daechu-cha 대추차 Jujube tea
- Gukhwa-cha 국화차 Chrysanthemum tea
- Gyepi-cha 계피차 Cinnamon tea
- Ggulsam cha 꿀삼차 Honey ginseng tea
- Insam-cha 인삼차 Ginseng tea
- Ma-cha 마차 Wild herb tea
- Maesil-cha 매실차 Plum tea
- Nok-cha 녹차 Green tea
- Omija-cha 오미자차 Five Flavors tea
- Saenggang-cha 생강차 Ginger tea
- Yak-cha 약차 Medicinal herb tea
- Yuja-cha 유자차 Citron tea
- Yulmu-cha 율무차 “Job’s Tears” tea
This list of teas might mean nothing at all to you and that is a-okay. In Korea, there are everything from loose-leaf teas to flower teas, grain teas, root teas, and beyond. Basically, anything that they can pour hot water over, they do.
If you want more information about the teas, their health benefits, and plan what you want to order ahead of time, check out this guide to Korean teas. Korean teas are some of the best souvenirs and gifts from Korea in my opinion so while you’re in the area, stop just up the road in O’Sulloc Tea House to buy some gifts for others after you enjoy your own teas here.
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